Today Turkey

Sightseeing Overview
It takes time to see Istanbul properly, since examples of its 2,000-year-old past can be difficult to find amid the chaos of the present. Most visitors go straight to the Sultanahmet district, the oldest part of the city, where there are at least some remnants of Byzantine Constantinople, such as Haghia Sophia, among the splendors of Imperial Ottoman architecture, such as Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque. Sultanahmet is, however, a "tourist quarter" with the usual irritations of badgering touts and crowds of people and it is not the only historic part of the city.

The city center, including the areas referred to as "the old city" and "the new city", which are separated by the estuary of the Golden Horn, is located on the European side of Istanbul, on the western side of the Bosphorus Strait. Northwest of Sultanahmet lies the area of Beyazit, focused around the famous Kapali Carsi (Covered or Grand Bazaar), while directly north from Sultanahmet, following the tramway, visitors will quickly hit the noisy, chaotic Eminonu docks on the Golden Horn. From here, across the Galata Bridge, the area beginning at Karakoy port, running up to the landmark Galata Tower and then up through Beyoglu and Taksim, was for centuries the designated residence of foreigners, including Italian, Greek and Levantine traders. The Tunel climbs the hill from Karakoy port to the start of Istiklal Caddesi, a mile-long pedestrian thoroughfare leading up to Taksim Square, the heart of modern Istanbul and home to much of its nightlife.

Mosques are almost always open to visitors, outside prayer times, although shorts and sleeveless clothes should not be worn. Shoes are left outside and women will be loaned a shawl to covers arms and hair. Visitors should not take photographs of women wearing the traditional black Carsaf, as this is forbidden. Parents of little boys in their full circumcision regalia will usually allow photos, although a small gift of money to the child is traditional.

Istanbul's museum system is confusing, as each is run by different ministries, municipal authorities or private owners. Entrance charges or opening hours can change suddenly. Check with tourist offices for up-to-date opening times and prices.

Tourist Information
Tourist Information (Turizm Danisma Burosu)
Sultanahmet Meydani
Tel: (0212) 518 8754/1802 or 257 4503.
Website: www.turizm.gov.tr
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0900-1300.

Good free city maps are available. Other offices are located at Ataturk Airport (International arrivals), Sirkeci Railway Station, Karakoy port and the Hilton Hotel Arcade (Elmadag).

Passes
There are no tourist passes currently available.

Key Attractions:

Haghia Sophia
Haghia Sophia, known as Aya Sofya and translated as "Church of Divine Wisdom", is considered the world's finest example of Byzantine architecture. Consecrated in 537AD, its vast dome rises to 56m (183ft), designed to appear suspended in space and thus representative of heaven. So impressed was Mehmet the Conqueror that when he took the city in 1453, he dedicated it as a mosque, and it remained so until declared a museum when the Turkish Republic was founded. Highlights include Byzantine mosaics and huge Ottoman circular shields containing calligraphy of Koranic verses.

Sultanahmet, in front of Topkapi Palace
Tel: (0212) 522 1750.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700 (winter), 0900-1800 (summer).
Admission charge.

Topkapi Palace
Originally built as a summer residence and the seat of government, Topkapi Palace was home to harem, state administration and military personnel in the 16th century, with around 3,000 residents. Sultans abandoned it for Dolmabahce Palace in 1855, but many of the sumptuous jewels of the original treasury (including the Topkapi dagger, and gold-plated throne of Murat III), the armory, silk ceremonial robes, Chinese ceramics and the collection of manuscripts, all convey the old Ottoman decadence. Near the Imperial Gate is Haghia Eirene Museum, venue of concerts during the International Istanbul music festival. The prison-like Harem, comprising several dozen ornate rooms which once housed up to 300 concubines, is only open to guided tours and requires a separate ticket (and separate queue). Weekends and holidays are more crowded.

Seraglio Point, Sultanahmet
Tel: (0212) 512 0480.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 0900-1700 (winter); Wed-Mon 0900-1800 (summer).
Admission charge.

Kapali Carsisi (Covered or Grand Bazaar)
The famous and vast bazaar is the best known of Istanbul's markets. It was instated shortly after the 1493 Conquest and contained the slave market, as well as the hans, or caravanserais of old, where Silk Road traders could rest themselves and their camels, as well as sell their goods. While the ornate ceilings and labyrinth-like layout still hark back to the past, these days the vast number of stalls (more than 4,000 of them, in over 60 streets) sell mainly tourist-friendly goods, including carpets, gold, leather and ceramics. The complex also contains two mosques, money change offices, a police station, cafes and an information point. Haggling is essential at most stalls.

Beyazit
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1900.
Free admission.

Misir Carsisi (Egyptian or Spice Market)
This L-shaped market, facing the Golden Horn, was built in the 17th century as an extension to Yeni Camii (New Mosque), and financed by the money paid as duty on Egyptian goods. Originally famed for its exotic spices and oils from the Orient, these days it also sells dried fruits, caviar and Turkish delight, as well a plethora of souvenirs. Its surrounding streets are a hub of commercial activity, with local craftspeople, traders and a great selection of cheeses and olives.

Eminonu
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0800-1900.
Free admission.

Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque)
The Blue Mosque was built during the reign of Sultan Ahmet (1603-1617), as Islam's answer to Haghia Sophia, and remains the symbol and center of religious demonstrations and Istanbul's only mosque with six minarets. Blue Iznik tiles dominate the interior, and blue light shines through more than 250 windows. The interior is stunning, from the vast central dome designed to lift all eyes heavenward to the latticework-covered Imperial Loge and the mihrab (prayer niche) containing a piece of sacred black stone from Mecca. At dusk during summer there is a Son et Lumi'e (sounds and lights) show. The Imperial Pavilion also contains a state-run Carpet Museum with Usak, Bergama and Konya samples, dating between the 16th and 19th centuries. (The mosque is undergoing restoration until early 2007).

Hippodrome, Sultanahmet
Tel: (0212) 518 1319.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours, except during some prayer times; Carpet Museum: Tues-Sat 0900-1600.
Free admission.

Yerebatan Sarayi (Basilica Cistern)
Sometimes referred to as the Sunken Palace, the Basilica Cistern was the reservoir for water required for the Byzantine Great Palace, and thought to date back to AD532. This huge atmospheric structure, measuring 140m (460ft) by 70m (230ft), still contains a few feet of water, over which wooden walkways have been constructed. Many of the 335 columns supporting the cathedral-like ceiling have been recycled from pre-Christian temples - such as the Medusa heads that are used as column bases, pilfered from the Temple of Apollo in Didyma (Didim). The cistern was used as a film set for the James Bond film, From Russia With Love (1963).

Yerebatan Caddesi, Sultanahmet
Tel: (0212) 522 1259.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1730.
Admission charge.

Suleymaniye Mosque
Although fewer tourists make it here than to the Blue Mosque, this is even grander and more peaceful, and one of the finest creations by Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. The huge 53m-high dome and pencil-slim minarets from each corner of the courtyard are an exquisite example of symmetry and elegance. Built in the 1550s, the site also contains the tombs of Sinan, Sultans Suleyman II and Ahmet II decorated with intricate tiles, the original apartments of the mosque astronomer, charitable foundations, caravanserai and fountain, all set around a tranquil courtyard. There are several outdoor tea-houses in a row behind the mosque.

Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi, Suleymaniye
Tel: (0212) 513 3608.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1730. Closed to non-Muslims during prayer times.
Free admission (donation requested).

Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower)
The balcony at the top of Galata Tower has an unforgettable view of the city. Built in 1348 by the Genoese as part of their fortifications, this distinctive 62m (205ft) tower with conical roof is visible from most of the city. It was converted to cater for tourism, which thankfully includes a lift, plus a nightclub and restaurant on the top floors. On a clear day, the view is spectacular and it is possible to see the main monuments of Istanbul and even Princes Islands, and is highly recommended for visitors to get a feel of the surroundings. There are several charming tea gardens at the foot.

Buyuk Hendek Sokak, Tunel
Tel: (0212) 245 3263.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-2000.
Admission charge.

Taksim Square and Istiklal Caddesi
The square is the nucleus of Istanbul's modern European side, which many tourists unfortunately miss. In the south-west corner is the Monument of Independence, where the busy Istiklal Caddesi starts and cuts through Beyoglu area. This 1.5km (1 mile) pedestrianized boulevard is lined with shops, cinemas, markets and restaurants, and especially crowded at night. Its 19th-century European consulates, churches and ornate buildings are evidence that Beyoglu was once the centerpiece for an art nouveau belle oque, and later the hang-out for bohemian artists and intellectuals. Highlights include the stained glass at the entrance to Cicek Pasaj (Flower Passage), the imposing Galatasaray Lisesi (High School) and various contemporary art galleries (free).

Beyoglu
Opening hours: Most shops open till 2100, later on Fri-Sat.
Free admission.

Greek Orthodox Patriarchate (Rum Patrikhanesi)
The western district of Fener (sadly overlooked by many visitors, yet home to many historical churches) is where you will find the head of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchy, here in Istanbul since the fourth century and in this location since 1601. The actual church within the complex (newly restored after a devastating fire) is called Aya Yorgi (St George). Its interior is opulent dark wood, filled with sacred relics, huge gold-edged paintings and the throne of the Patriarch and St John Hrisostomos, thought to date back to the Byzantine era.

Sadrazam Ali Pasa Caddesi 35, Fenerr
Tel: (0212) 525 2117.
Opening hours: 0900-1700.

Turk ve Eserleri Muzesi (Turkish and Islamic Art Museum)
Originally the 16th-century palace of Suleymaniye the Magnificent's most able Grand Vizier, Ibrahim Pasha, this museum contains more than 40,000 items dating from between the seventh to the 19th century. Its famous carpet display contains Turkish carpets depicting Holbein paintings and fragments of 13th-century Selcuk rugs. Further highlights include Ottoman Koran cases and stands, illuminated manuscripts and tiles, and the basement contains an exhibition of the evolution of the Turkish house - from nomadic tents to 19th-century palaces.

Hippodrome 46, Sultanahmet
Tel: (0212) 518 1805.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700 (winter); Tues-Sun 0900-1730 (summer).
Admission charge.

Archeoloji Muzeleri (Archaeological Museums)
Istanbul's Archaeology Museums are located in three separate buildings, once part of the Topkapi Palace complex. The main building houses the famous fourth-century Alexander sarcophagus discovered in Lebanon, as well as the facade of the Temple to Athena from Assos, Byzantine mosaics and sarcophagi. The interior of the Cinili Kosk (Tiled Pavilion), built in 1472, is covered in Iznik tiles and contains the 14th-century royal blue Karaman Mihrab (prayer niche). The Museum of the Ancient Orient includes the Treaty of Kadesh, drawn up between the Egyptians and Hittites in 1269BC, plus a magnificent frieze of a bull from Babylon.

Osman Hamdi Bey Yokusu, Gulhane
Tel: (0212) 520 7740.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1700.
Admission charge.

Istanbul Modern
Located in a restored old waterfront warehouse and opened in 2004, the huge Istanbul Modern has a fine collection of contemporary arts from Turkey and around the world. Specialising in painting and photography, with a cinema screening world films in the basement, the gallery hosts exhibitions that include 20th-century home-grown talent to try to encourage Turkish art. The entire venue is fresh, spacious and well laid-out, with a fine restaurant/cafe on the ground floor overlooking the Bosphorus.

Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi, Liman isletmeleri Sahasi Antrepo 4, Karakoy
Tel: (0212) 334 7300.
Website: www.istanbulmodern.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800; Thurs 1000-2000.
Admission charge; Thurs free.

Yildiz Park
Rising above the area of Besiktas, Yildiz is a welcome relief from the noise of the city, with woodland and landscaped gardens. Sultan Abdul Hamit built them for the Ciragan Palace (now a 5-star hotel over the main road) where Sultans strolled and hunted since the 17th-century. It is now more popular with courting couples and picnicking families and is busiest at weekends. At the top are Malta Kosk and Cadir Kosk, two attractive 19th-century pavilions originally part of the palace, whose guests included Winston Churchill and Charles de Gaulle, and now operating as restaurants and cafe. The park also houses Yildiz Palace Museum, Imperial Porcelain Factory and City Museum.

Yildiz Park, Ciragan Caddesi, Besiktas.
Tel: (0212) 258 90 20.
Opening hours: Daily, dawn till dusk.
Free admission for pedestrians; charge for taxis.

Further Distractions:

Eyup
This religious district, about 8km (5 miles) from Sultanahmet, is best known for its huge Ottoman cemetery with stunning views over the Golden Horn. It is crowned with the famous Pierre Loti Cafe (tel: (0212) 616 2344) - best enjoyed for alfresco tea. The walk from the village is delightful, from the highly revered Eyup Mosque, past market stalls selling religious books and headscarves, and up the hill through the ancient tombstones.

Kariye Muzesi (Kariye Museum)
Originally an 11th-century church (and sometimes still referred to as Chora Church) this contains Istanbul's finest Byzantine mosaics, as well as superb 14th-century religious frescoes. Although converted to a mosque after the Conquest, the mosaics were merely whitewashed over, and have been preserved for display in what is now a secular museum.

Kariye Camii Sokak, Edirnekapi
Tel: (0212) 631 9241.
Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 0930-1630.
Admission charge.

Rahmi Koc Industrial Museum
Originally the 19th-century anchorage foundry, in a building dating back to the 12th century, this private collection of wealthy industrialist Rahmi Koc includes various modes of transport from all eras. It contains machinery related to aviation, an American bomber aircraft, an amphibious 1960s Amphicar and scientific equipment in one of the city's most unusual and eclectic collections. It is especially popular with children.

Haskoy Caddesi 27, Haskoy
Tel: (0212) 369 66 00/01/02.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1700; Sat-Sun 1000-1900.
Admission charge.

Divan Edebiyati Muzesi (Whirling Dervish Monastery)
The whirling dervishes, a mystic sect only nominally connected to Islam, were banned in the early days of the Republic, so this monastery is officially the Museum of Classical Ottoman Poetry and Musical Instruments. Dervishes still perform their ritual dance (sema) on some Saturday and Sunday afternoons (check for details).

Galip Dede Sokak 15
Tel: (0212) 245 4141.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 0930-1700.
Admission charge.